Used BMW 1 Series: The Only Rear-Wheel-Drive Premium Compact — and Why That Changes Everything

The BMW 1 Series is the only rear-wheel-drive car in the premium compact class, and that fact does two things simultaneously. It makes the car more engaging to drive than an Audi A3, a Mercedes A-Class, or any other rival at the price. And it means that if driving dynamics aren't your priority — if you want a reliable, practical, easy-to-live-with premium hatchback — there are better choices.

Be honest about which camp you're in before you start searching. If the answer is that you want a car that's properly alive to drive, that rewards smooth inputs, and that does something interesting when you push it on a B-road, the 1 Series is worth the extra research this guide requires. If you just want a premium badge and a quiet motorway cruiser, an A3 will cost less to service and give you fewer surprises.

Still here? Good. Here's how to buy the right 1 Series.

Which generation — E87, F20, or F40

E87 (2004–2011): The original 1 Series. Getting old now — even the freshest E87 is 14 years old. The rear-wheel-drive layout is here, and the driving experience is excellent, but the technology is dated, the interior feels its age, and maintenance costs on a neglected example will surprise you. Worth considering only at very low prices if you specifically want a project or a weekend car.

F20 (2011–2019) — the main used market car. This is what most buyers are looking for. A proper redesign that improved interior quality significantly, added modern safety systems, and introduced a range of more efficient engines. The F20 went through a 2015 facelift that matters more than most facelifts — read on.

F40 (2019–present): The current generation — and here's the controversial part. The F40 switched to front-wheel drive. BMW moved the driven wheels in the name of packaging and efficiency, and in doing so removed the characteristic that defined the nameplate. The F40 is a good car, arguably more practical than its predecessor, but it's not the 1 Series that people buy 1 Series cars for. Used F40s start at around £17,000. If your budget is there and the FWD doesn't bother you, it's a well-made premium hatchback. If the RWD was the point, you want an F20.

F20: pre-facelift or facelift — this distinction matters

Pre-facelift F20 (2011–2015): The engines in this era include the N13 1.6-litre four-cylinder (116i, 118i) and the N47 2.0-litre diesel (116d, 118d, 120d). Both have significant known issues. The N13 petrol has a well-documented cooling system problem — the electric water pump, thermostat housing, and expansion tank all tend to fail, often together, between 60,000 and 90,000 miles. The repair isn't catastrophic individually but the components can fail in sequence, so a pre-facelift 116i or 118i with 80,000 miles needs specific investigation of the cooling system. The N47 diesel has a known timing chain issue — chain wear at the rear of the engine causes a rattle that becomes progressively louder and eventually leads to chain failure. An N47 that rattles on cold start is a car that needs a chain, and that's not a cheap job.

Facelift F20 (2015–2019) — the one to buy. The 2015 facelift didn't just update the styling. BMW swapped the engines entirely. The N13 1.6 was replaced by the B38 1.5-litre three-cylinder (118i) and the B47 diesel was replaced by the improved B47 unit (though confusingly the same name). The B38 petrol and revised B47 diesel are meaningfully better engines with cleaner histories. A 2016 or 2017 facelift F20 in Sport or M Sport trim is the sweet spot — modern enough for CarPlay on some configurations, available with the better engines, and at prices that have dropped to attractive levels.

Engines — which to choose

118i B38 1.5 (facelift, 2015+) — petrol pick. A three-cylinder turbo that sounds characterful and pulls well above its displacement. Don't let the 1.5-litre displacement put you off — the turbo makes it feel bigger than it sounds. Economical (45–55mpg in mixed use) and without the cooling system anxiety of the pre-facelift engines. The right engine for most buyers who want petrol.

120i 2.0 B48: The 184ps version. Properly quick, smooth four-cylinder, and not significantly more problematic than the 118i. Available on facelift cars. If you find one at a sensible premium over the 118i, it's worth considering.

M140i 3.0 B58 340ps: Six cylinders, three hundred and forty horsepower, rear-wheel drive. This is a sports car wearing a hatchback body. Brilliant if you find a well-maintained example. Expensive to insure, expensive to service, and cars that have lived an enthusiastic life show it. Full service history, ideally with main dealer stamps, is non-negotiable on an M140i. Check for track day use.

118d B47 2.0 (facelift) — diesel pick. The revised B47 diesel in the facelift is a much better engine than the N47 it replaced. Refined, economical (55–65mpg on longer runs), and without the catastrophic timing chain reputation of its predecessor. The right engine if you're covering 15,000+ miles annually with motorway content. Confirm it's the B47 (post-2015 facelift) rather than the N47.

Rear-wheel drive in practice — what to expect

The RWD layout means the 1 Series behaves differently to front-wheel-drive rivals in certain conditions. In wet weather and on slippery surfaces, the rear can step out under power if you're not smooth — less so with DSC (stability control) on, but it's worth knowing the character. In snow without winter tyres, a RWD car is noticeably more demanding than a FWD one. On dry roads and B-roads, the balance is a genuine pleasure — the steering is communicative in a way that FWD compact hatches rarely are, and the car rotates cleanly under trail braking in a way that simply doesn't happen in an A3. This is the trade-off you're making. Most buyers in the UK consider it a very good trade.

Common problems

N13 cooling system (pre-facelift 116i/118i): The electric water pump, thermostat housing, and coolant expansion tank are the three components to check. Ask directly whether any of these have been replaced. Low coolant on viewing is a red flag. Any repair history showing cooling system work in the last 30,000 miles is actually a positive sign — it means the problem has been addressed rather than ignored.

N47 timing chain (pre-facelift diesel): Cold-start rattle that disappears after 10–20 seconds is the classic symptom. A rattle that persists longer is a chain that's close to failure. On a pre-facelift diesel with over 70,000 miles and no chain evidence in the history, get it inspected before buying.

Fuel injector seals (diesel): A ticking noise from the top of the diesel engine at idle that sounds like a sewing machine often indicates a leaking injector seal rather than a mechanical problem. The repair is straightforward (£200–£400) but worth knowing about before you buy.

Brake wear rate: The 1 Series, being a sporty car, goes through brake pads more quickly than a family hatchback — particularly the rear brakes (a quirk of the RWD setup and brake bias). Budget £200–£350 for a full brake service if the car hasn't had one in the last 30,000 miles. Check by looking through the wheel spokes — you should be able to see the disc and pad. Any disc that looks grooved or scored, or any pad that looks thin, is overdue.

What to pay in 2026

• F20 118i facelift, 2017, 50,000 miles, Sport: £12,000–£16,000
• F20 118d facelift, 2017, 65,000 miles: £11,000–£15,000
• F20 120i, 2018, 45,000 miles, M Sport: £14,000–£18,000
• F20 M140i, 2017, 50,000 miles: £19,000–£26,000

What you'll actually spend

The 1 Series occupies a tricky position on running costs. It looks like a premium compact hatchback at premium compact prices, but it runs like a BMW — which means servicing at a main dealer is expensive, and some repair jobs cost more than equivalent work on a Ford or Vauxhall simply because of parts pricing. The answer is to use an independent BMW specialist rather than a main dealer, which cuts service costs roughly in half. A standard oil and filter service on the B47 diesel or B38 petrol runs £150–£200 at an independent versus £350–£500 at a BMW main dealer.

Insurance groups on the F20 range from group 20 for the 116d SE up to group 40+ for the M140i. A facelift F20 118i Sport for a driver in their late twenties with a clean licence typically insures for £700–£1,200 per year — meaningfully more than a Golf or Focus but less than the M2 or M3 it shares showroom space with. Road tax on post-April 2017 F20s is the flat £190 standard rate. Pre-2017 cars are taxed on CO2 — the 118i and 118d of this era sit in bands that cost £110–£165 per year.

Brake wear is a specific running cost to plan for. The 1 Series goes through brakes faster than a front-wheel-drive hatchback — the rear brakes in particular carry more load than they would on a FWD car. Budget £250–£400 for rear pads and discs and £200–£350 for fronts, at intervals of roughly 25,000–35,000 miles depending on driving style. On any used 1 Series, check the brake condition specifically before agreeing a price — it's a cost that comes around regularly.

Who it's for — honestly

One practical note on buying a used 1 Series: the iDrive infotainment system on F20 cars improved significantly across the generation. Pre-2016 cars have iDrive 4 — functional but visually dated with a smaller screen. Post-2016 cars with the updated iDrive 6 have a larger 6.5-inch or 8.8-inch display and improved responsiveness. If CarPlay matters to you, confirm it's present before viewing — it wasn't standard on all trim levels and some cars need a software activation or retrofit. Check on the test drive that it connects to your phone, that navigation works, and that the iDrive controller clicks cleanly without dead spots — a worn rotary controller on an older car can be a £200–£300 dealer replacement that the seller hasn't noticed or mentioned.

The F20 facelift (2015–2019) BMW 1 Series is the car for someone who drives enough to notice the difference, and cares enough about that difference to factor the higher running costs into the budget. If you commute 20 miles a day, park in tight urban spaces, and spend most of your time in traffic, the rear-wheel-drive advantage evaporates and a Golf R-Line would give you more for less. But if you live somewhere with actual roads — a stretch of B-road between you and work, an occasional weekend drive for its own sake — the 1 Series offers something that nothing else in the price bracket does. The M140i is a standout used buy if you can find a good one; the facelift 118i is the sensible entry point. Either way: facelift only, service history mandatory.

Also see: Used BMW 3 Series Buying Guide | Used Audi A3 Buying Guide